Markets, River Light and Street Photography in Cambodia’s Capital
Photography-first field notes, practical techniques and thoughtful travel.
This guide is part of our photography-first look at Thailand and Cambodia ahead of the November 2027 workshop. It is based on research and planning rather than a claim that I have already photographed these locations myself.
1. Finding photographs in a living city
Some cities offer one unmistakable postcard view. Others reward photographers who enjoy walking, observing and allowing a scene to unfold. From everything I've researched, Phnom Penh is firmly in the second category. Cambodia's capital has busy markets, layers of architecture, changing light on the riverfront and those ordinary street moments that can become much more interesting than the landmark you came to see. I love the idea of finishing our Thailand and Cambodia workshop with this kind of photography: lighter bags, open eyes and the freedom to respond.
2. Central Market: architecture and everyday life
Phsar Thmei, or Central Market, has an extraordinary Art Deco dome and wings extending away from it. I'd begin with the geometry, using a wide or standard lens to explore symmetry and repeating forms. Then I'd look at how daylight enters the building and illuminates the activity beneath it. A market is a working place, though, not a set. People are selling, buying and moving through narrow aisles. Ask permission for close portraits where appropriate, avoid obstructing traders and let the scene remain what it really is.
3. Russian Market and smaller scenes
Tuol Tom Poung, often called Russian Market, is known for dense stalls and narrow passages. It invites a different approach. Rather than trying to cram a busy corridor into one frame, I'd search for smaller compositions: colours repeated along a stall, hands working in a little pool of light, or a doorway separating brightness and shadow. A 35mm or 50mm prime can be useful here. Indoor light may require higher ISO and a wider aperture, but I'd avoid using flash in somebody's face just to solve my technical problem.
4. Sisowath Quay and the riverfront
Phnom Penh sits near the meeting of the Mekong, Tonlé Sap and Bassac rivers. The riverfront around Sisowath Quay offers an appealing change from crowded markets: boats, public spaces, historic buildings and people going about their day. I'd explore early when the light is softer, then return around late afternoon and blue hour. Don't assume the sun sets directly behind the river from every position. Study where the light falls on buildings and people instead. Sometimes the best evening picture faces away from the sunset.
5. Architecture beyond the market
The Royal Palace complex and the streets around it offer distinctive rooflines and decorative details. I'd try wide compositions for context and a longer lens to isolate layers of architecture. But the Royal Palace is an active ceremonial complex, with photography restrictions in certain interiors and variable access. Follow the current site instructions, particularly around religious or official activity. Good architecture photography can be made entirely from permitted viewpoints; stepping beyond barriers is neither necessary nor acceptable.
6. Finding the light on an ordinary street
One technique I enjoy is finding interesting light before looking for a person to photograph. Perhaps a narrow shaft of sunshine falls between buildings. Settle on a composition and see whether something happens. Maybe somebody walks into the patch of light at exactly the right moment. Maybe nobody does, and you move on. That's street photography. It doesn't always produce something, but the process makes you look carefully. Layered scenes, with a foreground shape, middle-distance subject and useful background, can be especially rewarding once you start noticing them.
7. Camera settings that help rather than hinder
I would normally favour aperture priority with Auto ISO and a sensible minimum shutter speed when moving between bright roads and shaded markets. Around 1/250 second is a useful starting point for walking subjects; move towards 1/500 or faster for quicker action. There is also a place for slow-shutter experiments such as panning a passing vehicle, perhaps starting around 1/30 second from a safe pavement. If it works, lovely. If not, you've made a wonderfully abstract photograph of nothing much at all. We've all done it!
8. Travel light and photograph respectfully
A 24–70mm would be my workhorse. A small 35mm or 50mm prime would be excellent for low-light scenes, while a telephoto is optional for details and layered city images. I would avoid carrying every piece of equipment through markets, and keep my bag secure. More importantly, think about how people feel when we photograph them. Candid moments are part of street photography, but dignity and context matter. Respect refusals, ask for close portraits when appropriate and don't use a long lens as an excuse to intrude.
9. Understanding the city’s difficult history
Any thoughtful visit to Phnom Penh needs to acknowledge the Khmer Rouge period and the experiences of the Cambodian people. Memorial places such as Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek deserve respect and reflection. They are not casual photography attractions. A site may permit some personal photography while requiring permission for commercial uses; that doesn't mean every image is appropriate. I would prioritise understanding and learning, and in some spaces leave the camera in the bag entirely. Responsible travel photography includes knowing when not to make a photograph.
10. A thoughtful final chapter
November usually brings a transition towards Cambodia's drier season, though rain and humidity remain possible. I would organise the day around early and late sessions when practical, with time to rest during the hottest hours. Phnom Penh finishes our November 2027 workshop after Chiang Rai, Yi Peng, Angkor and Tonlé Sap. It brings together composition, timing, light and observation in a completely different setting. Sometimes the most memorable photograph is not the one you researched for months. It is the one you noticed because you stopped rushing and started looking.
Thanks so much for reading, folks. Take it easy, everyone. Cheers!
Explore Thailand & Cambodia with your camera
9–22 November 2027 · Maximum six photographers · Northern Thailand, Yi Peng, Angkor, Tonlé Sap and Phnom Penh.
Explore the Thailand & Cambodia Photography Workshop